What makes a diamond perfect? More than just its sparkle, the parts of a diamond affect how it interacts with light and contributes to the diamond’s fire, brilliance and scintillation. Let’s take a closer look at the structural features that make a diamond truly captivating.
Key Takeaways
- The anatomy of a diamond directly impacts its brilliance and value.
- The main components of a diamond include the table, crown, girdle, diameter, pavilion, culet, and depth. Each of these contribute to a diamond’s appearance and appeal.
- Understanding the key features of a diamond’s anatomy can allow you to truly appreciate a diamond and find one that is best for you.
Diamond Anatomy
Overview
A cut diamond comprises several key components: the table, crown, girdle, diameter, pavilion, culet and depth. Each part plays a crucial role in a diamond's beauty and structural integrity.
Understanding the anatomy of a diamond is a look into one of the factors that determine a diamond’s cut grade (one of the 4 Cs to diamonds). For instance, the ratio of the table to the diameter and the depth to diameter are important components in calculating a diamond’s cut grade. However, it’s crucial to note that no single component is an exact indicator of the cut grade, as the diamond’s appearance comes from the overall effect of all its components.
Facets
Facets are flat polished surfaces that allow a diamond to capture and reflect light. When light enters a diamond, it strikes these facets and is either reflected to the eye or refracted within the diamond. All of a diamond’s facets work together to create its unique appearance.
Facets make up the components of a diamond, such as the table facet, crown facets and pavilion facets. The arrangement and number of facets vary among different cuts of diamonds, for example, the classic round brilliant cut typically has 57 or 58 facets.
Table
The table is the flat top surface or the largest polished facet at the top of the diamond, contributing to its sparkle.
Table size is typically expressed as a percentage of the diamond’s total diameter. An ideal table percentage ranges from 53% to 60% for most shapes, which ensures optimal light performance.
While a larger table might make a diamond look bigger, it can compromise its fire and scintillation. A smaller table may increase these qualities, but cause the diamond to look smaller.
Crown
Surrounding the table, the crown acts as a window to the depths of the diamond.
Other than the table facet, the crown is made up of kite facets (diamond-shaped facets), star facets (triangular facets) and upper girdle facets. These work in harmony to influence how bright and sparkly a diamond appears.
Girdle
The girdle refers to the middle of the diamond at its widest point, where the crown and pavilion meet. It forms the boundary between the crown above and the pavilion below, ensuring stability.
The girdle's thickness is also important: a thin girdle will create a fragile edge that is easily chopped, while a girdle that is too thick will add weight and detract from the diamond’s elegance.
Diameter
Also called the girdle diameter, the diameter is the width of a polished stone at its widest point.
Pavilion
The pavilion is the bottom part of the diamond, from just below the girdle to the culet.
Culet
The culet (pronounced cue-let) is the small or pointed facet at the very bottom of a diamond. Its size ranges from ‘None’ to ‘Very Large’, but a small culet or none at all creates a more vibrant sparkle. A larger culet can cause a dark spot at the bottom of the diamond, compromising its overall brilliance and appearance.
Depth
Depth refers to the total height of a diamond, measured from the table to the culet.
The ideal depth percentage varies by shape but generally falls within a specific range to maximize brilliance and fire. For example, round brilliant diamonds often exhibit their best qualities when their depth percentages are between 59% and 62.6%.
Diamond Symmetry
Symmetry refers to how aligned the facets are in a stone, their exactness of shape and arrangement. Diamonds are graded from Ideal to Poor based on their symmetry, and better symmetry means a more valuable diamond.
Some of the most common symmetry variations include:
- Wavy girdle
- Crown and pavilion misalignment
- Extra facets
- Off-centre culet
- Off-centre table
- Misshapen face
- Table not parallel to girdle plane
Diamond Polish
Diamond polish is graded from Excellent to Poor, based on how smooth the diamond’s facets are after being cut and faceted.
A rough diamond would have small crystal bumps on the facets that create a dull or cloudy appearance, whereas a polished diamond has smooth facet surfaces and clean edges.
Diamond Proportions
Balance in proportions is key to maximizing a diamond's brilliance.
A well-proportioned diamond will have a balance between depth and table, which is essential for optimal light reflection. Diamonds that are too deep or too shallow may not reflect light as effectively, leading to a duller appearance.
Diamond Fluorescence
Fluorescence describes how some diamonds naturally emit light when exposed to ultraviolet rays. Though a diamond’s fluorescence is not visible to the naked eye in everyday light conditions, holding the diamond under an ultraviolet lamp will reveal a soft glow.
However, not all diamonds exhibit fluorescence. Approximately 25-35% of diamonds have some degree of fluorescence, which may differ in strength and intensity. The phenomenon has no noticeable effect on the appearance of most diamonds and is a purely personal choice.
This characteristic can be found on your diamond’s grading report, which details the strength or intensity of the diamond’s fluorescence.
Closing Thoughts
Learning about a diamond’s anatomy is one step towards understanding what makes a perfect diamond. For more insight into a diamond’s shine or to experience how the different features of a diamond influence its look, head down to our boutiques and our expert staff will be happy to guide you through this sparkling journey.